Knitting charts can look intimidating at first – a grid full of strange symbols – but once you understand a few simple rules, they become the fastest way to read a pattern. This guide walks you through everything you need to know to follow any chart on KnitHit, from reading direction to the most common symbols.
What Is a Knitting Chart?
A knitting chart is a visual map of your knitting. Each square in the grid represents one stitch, and each horizontal row of squares represents one row of knitting. Instead of reading “k2, yo, ssk, k1” in text, you see the stitches laid out exactly as they will appear on your needles. Charts are especially helpful for lace and cable patterns, where the visual layout shows you how the design lines up from row to row.
Which Direction Do You Read a Chart?
Charts are read from the bottom up, in the same order you knit. For flat knitting (back and forth in rows): read right-side rows (usually the odd-numbered rows) from right to left, and wrong-side rows (usually even-numbered) from left to right. The row numbers printed along the edges of the chart tell you where to start – if the number is on the right edge, read that row right to left.
If you are knitting in the round, every row is a right-side row, so you read every chart row from right to left.
Common Chart Symbols
Symbols vary slightly between publishers, so always check the key that comes with your pattern. These are the conventions used on KnitHit and most modern patterns:
| Symbol | Right side (RS) | Wrong side (WS) |
|---|---|---|
| Empty square ▢ | Knit | Purl |
| Dot ● | Purl | Knit |
| Circle ◯ | Yarn over (yo) | Yarn over (yo) |
| Right slash ⟋ | K2tog (right-leaning decrease) | P2tog |
| Left slash ⟍ | SSK (left-leaning decrease) | SSP |
| Triangle ▲ | Central double decrease (CDD) | – |
| Crossed box ⊠ | No stitch (skip this square) | No stitch |
| Cable symbols | Cross stitches front/back (e.g. C4F, C4B) | – |
Notice the logic in the first two rows of the table: the symbols show how the stitch looks from the right side of the fabric. An empty square means “smooth stockinette here when seen from the front,” so on a wrong-side row you purl it to make that happen.
Understanding Pattern Repeats
Most charts show one repeat of the pattern, often marked with a bold or red border. If a pattern says “multiple of 8 + 3,” you repeat the 8 stitches inside the marked box across your row, and the 3 extra stitches (edge stitches) are charted outside the box. Vertically, when you finish the last charted row, you start again at row 1 unless the pattern says otherwise.
The “No Stitch” Square
Lace charts sometimes contain greyed-out or crossed squares marked “no stitch.” These appear when the stitch count changes between rows – for example after a decrease that is not compensated until a later row. When you reach a “no stitch” square, simply skip it and move to the next symbol. It exists only to keep the chart grid aligned.
Tips for Chart Success
Use a row marker: a sticky note, magnetic board, or highlighter tape placed above the row you are working keeps your eyes on the right line, and lets you see the rows you have already knitted below it. Count your stitches at the end of every chart row when learning a new pattern – lace mistakes are far easier to fix one row late than ten. And place stitch markers between repeats on your needle, so an error stays contained inside one repeat instead of shifting your whole row.
Practice with These Patterns
The best way to learn charts is to knit from one. These KnitHit patterns are good practice, in rising order of difficulty: start with the Seed Stitch (simple knit-purl alternation), move on to the Larkspur Stitch (a short 9-row lace repeat), then try the Falling Leaves pattern (yarn overs and paired decreases), and finish with the Twisted Cable (cable crossings over a 45-row repeat).
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I have to use the chart, or can I follow written instructions?
Every pattern on KnitHit includes both a chart and full written row-by-row instructions. They describe exactly the same thing, so use whichever you prefer – many knitters use the written text for tricky rows and the chart to see the big picture.
Why is row 1 at the bottom of the chart?
Because the chart mirrors your knitting: your first row is at the bottom of the fabric, and the work grows upward. Reading the chart bottom-up means the chart always looks like what is hanging from your needles.
What if my chart has even-numbered rows missing?
Some charts only show right-side rows and tell you to “purl all WS rows.” This is common in lace, where all shaping happens on the right side. Check the pattern notes – if even rows are not charted, the instructions will say what to do on them.